[jwmark]

We have power at one side of the door switch and through the thermal fuse, but not back to the other side of the door switch. What are the possible solutions and any tests we could do to confirm a diagnosis? Thank you!

[denman]

Here are your parts
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL DU943PWKQ0 UNDERCOUNTER DISHWASHER | AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for the tech sheet

We have power at one side of the door switch and through the thermal fuse, but not back to the other side of the door switch. What are the possible solutions and any tests we could do to confirm a diagnosis?
I am not sure how you are measuring or where your meter leads are located.
If you leave the reference meter lead in one place and you measure voltage on one side of a switch and the switch is mechanically closed and you do not see the same voltage on the far side of the switch, then the switch is toast.

Another way to to it is if you measure 120 volts across a non-activated switch connectors and then activate it the voltage should drop to 0 volts.

[jwmark]

Thank you for the reply and the download. It is a help, but we still are not sure about the problem. We checked the continuity of the two door switches and the thermal fuse. They all worked as they should. We tested voltage across the terminals for the black and tan wires on the door switch. We got voltage, and it dropped to zero when we activated the switch. When we tested the other switch, at the terminals with the white wire and the white/violet wire we got just a very small movement on the needle for voltage when the switch was activated (no real reading for voltage). We tested from both sides of the thermal fuse to a ground and got voltage. We tested for voltage from the white/violet lead to a ground and got the very small movement of the needle on the meter. Are there any other test we may perform to diagnose this problem? Thank you so much!

[denman]

The W to WV switch test is inconclusive.

You could remove power from the unit and measure across the switch using resistance (ohms), should drop to zero ohms when closed.

Another test would be one meter lead on T (P8) and the other lead on W/WV (P7) on the board. With both switches closed you should see 120 volts.

If it is there then the board is probably toast.