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McGiver  
#1 Posted : Monday, April 27, 2009 9:14:10 PM(UTC)
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McGiver

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The thermofuse was blown and a capacitor looked expanded on the circuit board. They wanted $157 to replace the fuse and said nothing about the capacitor that I pointed out to him. So I went to the electronic store, Mar Vac or Signal Electronics, and got the fuses for $1.60 each. Capacitor 70 cents. Had to drill out the old capacitor soldiering with a 1/32 bit and a Dremel drill. For all we know it was only the fuse. WHen soldering the fuse you have to use lots of heat sinks. The next fuse blew fast but we ran the heat dry mode which could have made it too hot but the thermostat measured the low end resistance as in the manual suggesting perfection. So we have the new fuse sticking out the front to keep cool, drilled holes for it to fit through and snap straight into place. Now it's working very good. However, I'm still going to layer some fiberglass insulation between the circuit board and the washing machine to keep it cool. Many have suggested replacing only six inches of new "harness" which really means the connectors are discoloring and corroding with no recall campain.
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denman  
#2 Posted : Tuesday, April 28, 2009 1:31:13 AM(UTC)
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denman

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It sounds like you have basically defeated the purpose of the thermal fuse.
This may not be a good idea.
As far as I can see, it is there as a secondary safety device in case the HiLimit thermostat welds it's contacts together and the heater is held on OR if the unit has a vent that does not open.
I do not think the capacitor needed replacing, the fuses do have an amperage rating but usually it is 15 amps or higher so the current through them should not blow them.

I have not seen any people getting back to us saying that the fuse blew a second time as long as they used the new harness so I would go with that solution. This of coarse is only for units that the heater/vent are working correctly and it was just a random blow out.

Perhaps others have seen this and could comment!!
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
richappy  
#3 Posted : Tuesday, April 28, 2009 2:40:13 AM(UTC)
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richappy

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I have measured a total of 12 amps on these Whirlpools with the motor and heater on at the same time. If the inlet water is too cold, the heater will be on longer to heat the water and could extend into the motor start up period. The high starting current combined with the heater will sometimes blow the fuse.
Usually raising the inlet water temperature will solve the problem unless there are other problems with the heater circuit.
McGiver  
#4 Posted : Tuesday, April 28, 2009 8:32:53 AM(UTC)
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McGiver

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I THINK the thermal fuse is for electrical purpose over and above the hot water heat. A fuse generally is for "over current problems", not the actual heating of the utility. That's why I think it is safe to have it wired correctly but sticking out the front of the machine. The thermostat may be faulty causing too hot of water but it tested perfect at 50K Ohms which is the cool end of the acceptable range. I am thinking of putting fiberglass insulation between the computer board and the tub to keep it cooler, then I probably don't have to worry about the thermal fuse blowing from hot water heat. Seems to working great for 5 times now.
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