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Kitchenaid model KUDS01FLBL1. Went to run it last week and no lights on panel and no operation. Checked power to and through the fuse and that's good. Ordered new Control Panel and Interface. Installed and no results. No lights and no operation. Only think I can think of is the Ribbon Cable. Anyone have another suggestion?
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Originally Posted by: homerepairbyneed  Kitchenaid model KUDS01FLBL1. Went to run it last week and no lights on panel and no operation. Checked power to and through the fuse and that's good. Ordered new Control Panel and Interface. Installed and no results. No lights and no operation. Only think I can think of is the Ribbon Cable. Anyone have another suggestion? Homerepair, I can't help but think you'll need the user interface, Part number: AP3085303
If the ribbon assembly is not twisted, kinked, or creased, I doubt the issue would be in the ribbon. :) :) :)
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That is one of the two parts that arrived today and was replaced. I get around 120v through the fuse, so I don't know what else to try. Could the replacemnt interface I got be bad? The door switch seems to work and there is power to and through the fuse. I can't figure it out. Is there a way to test the interface?
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Originally Posted by: homerepairbyneed That is one of the two parts that arrived today and was replaced. I get around 120v through the fuse, so I don't know what else to try. Could the replacemnt interface I got be bad? The door switch seems to work and there is power to and through the fuse. I can't figure it out. Is there a way to test the interface? Homerepair, A couple of things you'll need to check : This is a "live voltage test, so be careful. At the main control board, with the door switch bypassed or closed, Terminal P8( tan wire) to chassis ground should read 120 VAC. No voltage would indicate bad door switch or wire. Connector P2 pin 6(black / white wire) to chassis ground should read 120 VAC. No voltage would indicate a bad thermal fuse or damaged wire. At the thermal fuse the black wire to chassis ground should read 120 VAC to chassis ground. If that all checks OK, you'll need to run the diagnostic test mode : HIGH Temp(Power Scour)-Air Dry(No Heat Dry)(Energy Saver Dry)-High Temp(Power Scour)- Air Dry(No Heat Dry)(Energy Saver Dry)
DIAGNOSTICS CYCLE SERVICE FEATURE –
Press the above option keys
in the sequence shown, while the dishwasher is inactive, to run the Diagnostics Cycle. This cycle may be rapid advanced, interval by interval, by pressing the
Pots&Pans/Heavy key, Antibacteria/Cookware key, or Start key.
And observe the "LED" and operation of the dishwasher.
The Technical Data Sheet for your dishwasher should be attached to the backside on the lower kit plate area, If it's there you'll have a lot more information.
Good Luck,
:) :) :)
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Hate to ask this, but where is a chassis ground to do the live test. I had been doing live tests on just about every component earlier, but not those. What do I use for a ground?
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Originally Posted by: homerepairbyneed Hate to ask this, but where is a chassis ground to do the live test. I had been doing live tests on just about every component earlier, but not those. What do I use for a ground? Homerepair, Any part of the metal frame , bare matel, or any metal screw head, that attaches a component to the frame, will work as a good chassis grond. :) :) :)
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Originally Posted by: homerepairbyneed Hate to ask this, but where is a chassis ground to do the live test. I had been doing live tests on just about every component earlier, but not those. What do I use for a ground? that's what I figured but I wanted to be sure. I'll get back to you. Thanks for your help.
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I ran the tests and I'm a little confused. The P8 test showed no voltage. The P2 test shows no voltage. The Black wire on the back of the thermal fuse shows good voltage.
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Originally Posted by: homerepairbyneed I ran the tests and I'm a little confused. The P8 test showed no voltage. The P2 test shows no voltage. The Black wire on the back of the thermal fuse shows good voltage. Thanks, You have a bad thermal fuse, or damaged wires. Here you go. A) The black wire to the fuse, is a direct connection back to the junction box on the frame of the dishwasher base. ( it's OK) B) The P2pin#6 wire at the control board, is attached to the outlet side of the thermal fuse, no voltage indicates a bad thermal fuse or wiring problem from the thermal fuse to the control board. C) The P8 connector on the control board, is power into the control from the door switch and the thermal fuse, no voltage indicates a wiring issue, or bad door switch and or thermal fuse. You may want to bypass the new thermal fuse, to test the dishwasher operation and wiring, but don't leave it in that condition. and then order the fuse again. Good Luck, :) :) :)
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I jumped the connections out of the thermal fuse (black/white wire and black wire) and the power comes up. So it must be the thermal fuse. Thanks for your help
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