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Whirlpool Quiet Partner ii clean light flashing - have reset, still flashing

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I'm having the same problem as well. Clean light blinks 7 times, reset already twice. Seems to be getting hot

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Old 11-18-2012, 12:25 PM
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I'm having the same problem as well. Clean light blinks 7 times, reset already twice. Seems to be getting hot while running, and started it with hot water as well. How do I check the thermostat, heating element, or control board? Or do i need to take some other action first?

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Old 11-19-2012, 06:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spgaalaas View Post
I'm having the same problem as well. Clean light blinks 7 times, reset already twice. Seems to be getting hot while running, and started it with hot water as well. How do I check the thermostat, heating element, or control board? Or do i need to take some other action first?

Spgaalaas, In order to test the heater and thermostat circuit, you'll need a multi meter

Part number: AP5641751

Part number: AP5641751


To circuit check the heater circucit located on the bottom of the dishwasher tub.You'll need to remove power to the dishwasher, remove the kickplate and lower access panel so you can access the terminals on the heater and hi limit thermostat.
Label and disconnect the wires attached to the heater element terminals, place the meter leads, across the terminals and you should have a resistance teading of 10 to 35 ohms, if the heater is "good". Reattach the wires to the heater, if alls OK, diwsconnect the wires from the high limit thermostati, plce the meter leads across the thermosta terminals, you should have a "closed"(infinite resistance) circuit across the terminals at room temperature(below 140 dgrs.).
If all checks are OK, or in range, You will need to check the heater circuit at the control board( you didn't include a specific model number). You'll need to check for the 10 to 35 ohms resistance at the control board connector, to determine if the circuit is "colmplete" and replace the control board, if that's the case.
You do want to varify the water temperature in the tub, on the first fill. it needs to be a minimum of 120 dgrs. F. in the bottom of the tub, when the motor starts to wash. (the hotter, the better). The control board has a maximum amount of time to increase the water temperature to 140 dgrs.F.) if the control board does not see the circuit, resistance, etc. the "clean" light will flash 7 times.

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Old 11-19-2012, 09:00 AM
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Hey Joe, thanks for the quick reply. I checked the heater element and came up with 10.6 ohms, I think I found the thermostat small button looking thing that lives on the outside of the tub, its ohms were 00.1 - 00.2 it was bouncing between the two. My model number is DU1100XTPS7 I am not too sure about were to find the heater circuit on the control board. looks like there is another one of though's thermostat buttons inside the control area as well it ohms at 00.1 as well.
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Old 11-19-2012, 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by spgaalaas View Post
Hey Joe, thanks for the quick reply. I checked the heater element and came up with 10.6 ohms, I think I found the thermostat small button looking thing that lives on the outside of the tub, its ohms were 00.1 - 00.2 it was bouncing between the two. My model number is DU1100XTPS7 I am not too sure about were to find the heater circuit on the control board. looks like there is another one of though's thermostat buttons inside the control area as well it ohms at 00.1 as well.
Spgaalaas, So far you're doing fine. You should have had 000 in your meter display, when you tested the thermostat(s), but that's just a meter setting issue. Now you'll need to disconnect the red/white wire from the P3 terminal and the blue/red wire from the P9 terminal on the control board, and check the resistance across the wires(not the control board) and you should have 10.6 phms resistance. If you do, that confirms the thermostat, heater element and wiring are "good. You'll need to recheck the water temperature in the bottom of the tub after the first fill of a wash cycle (water temperature needs to be 120 to 130 dgrs.F.) If the water temperature is in range, then you'll need to replace the control board.

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Old 11-20-2012, 12:12 PM
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Hey Joe sorry it took so long to get back to you. just a question, should I be checking these with it plugged in or disconnected? I see your first post said to turn off power, or plug. Also can I just pull the wiring harness that holds all four wires, then test while still in the harness? Pulling the four wire harness and testing that way gave me 16.1 ohm's. I check the water temp last night just before it was going to drain and start flashing the light code, did not seem hot, just warm at best. Started with hot water running at the tap to insure hot water. water from the tap seemed to be much hot than in the bottom of the dishwasher. Dish's still dirty!

Last edited by spgaalaas : 11-20-2012 at 02:29 PM.
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Old 11-20-2012, 12:20 PM
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I popped out the start button facial piece as well!

Last edited by spgaalaas : 11-20-2012 at 02:36 PM.
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Old 11-20-2012, 03:16 PM
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I popped out the start button facial piece as well!
Spgaalaas, You're on target. Yes you want to remove power to the dishwasher, we don't need to get "zapped" with 120 VAC, when we're working. You also don't want any loose wires shorting or arcing during a repair either. You do want to disconnect the wires from the component when you test it(label them first, or have a good memory), that way you test the compnent resistance, and you eliminate any possible false readings. And you're on target for the control board harness, disconnect the plug from the board and test the wires in the connector.
The disturbing part is the water temperature, it should be 120 to 130 dgrs. at the start of the cycle and needs to be the same on all fill cycles for the remainder of the cycle(a few degree drop wouldn't make a major / noticable difference). Re confirm the component and circuit resistances, so we can pin this down to a water temperature issue,or a control board malfunction, and we can go from there.
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Old 11-21-2012, 08:53 AM
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Hey Joe
Just checked the wires from P3, and P9 and came up with .011
Checked water temp from tap, 137 degrees
running the washer now to see about the temp inside while running, just opened it up during the wash cycle to check temp it was 119 degrees.
I did notice that the water level was barely touching the heating coil, plus it does not look as if any water is getting spread throughout the washer.
It says that it is washing, but all that happens is it is filling , then draining. at no point is it spaying water around.
I keep checking the water temp. from time to time and it is around 127 degrees all of the time. Water just barely touches the heating element, never really runs, just fills, then drains, and take forever.

Last edited by spgaalaas : 11-21-2012 at 10:51 AM.
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Old 11-21-2012, 11:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spgaalaas View Post
Hey Joe
Just checked the wires from P3, and P9 and came up with .011
Checked water temp from tap, 137 degrees
running the washer now to see about the temp inside while running, just opened it up during the wash cycle to check temp it was 119 degrees.
I did notice that the water level was barely touching the heating coil, plus it does not look as if any water is getting spread throughout the washer.
It says that it is washing, but all that happens is it is filling , then draining. at no point is it spaying water around.
I keep checking the water temp. from time to time and it is around 127 degrees all of the time. Water just barely touches the heating element, never really runs, just fills, then drains, and take forever.
Spgaalaas,
Re check for multi meter setting, you should have read 10.6 ohms across the the p3 and P9 wires, with the wires attached to the thermostat and heater.
Now the no wash or water circulation problem. The water temps are in range, the water level should be touching the bottom of the element, or within 1/4 inch of it, so you're in range there. If you can hear the motor the motor run, but no water circulation,it could mean the filter is clogged with sediments and debris, so you'll need to remove the lower spray arm, and the accumulator

Part number: AP3609773

Part number: AP3609773


and check the filter screen and components for debris or sediment. You'll need to remove the protector

Part number: AP3851156

Part number: AP3851156


and check the chopper blade and screen for the same. If alls OK,
You'll need to remove the motor and volute from the sump assembly, and check the impeller

Part number: AP3738238

Part number: AP3738238


and sump, for damaged vanes, and debris.
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Old 01-28-2013, 03:56 PM
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have whirlpool du1100xtpt0. Clean light flashing 7 times have replaced the heating element; tried a thermister and that wasn't the problem. sent it back; have reset the code with heated dry, normal; and also heated dry hi-temp. I know for sure the water temperature is great and the pressure is great. have cleaned out the bottom of the tub. it runs for a while and shuts off. and sometimes when i get it to run it goes to rinse cycle right away. I open the door and my glasses steam up but when I touch the heating element it is not hot to the touch. I'm at my wits end because I have been dealing with this for about a month now. I replaced a heating element last year and about a month ago, all of a sudden I heard a noise and looked over at the dishwasher and I saw smoke coming out the right side of the front at the top. When I opened the door I found a top to a bottle of water laying underneath the heating element. I naturally thought that it did something to the element. But I replaced it and no luck.

Please help!!!
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