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HoundDoggy  
#1 Posted : Thursday, March 17, 2011 1:45:33 PM(UTC)
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HoundDoggy

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The dishwasher is leaving water in the bottom of the tub.
I can hear/see it pumping out the water during various points in the wash cycle, so it should not be a solenoid issue.
The pump is strong.

I have already replaced the entire solenoid assembly thinking it might be sticking at times
and the timer module assembly.

It seems like it is either skipping some pump out cycles (hence the timer replacement) or the duration of each pump out is shorter than it should be. During the final phase where it should pump out the tub completely
I will get a short pump out cycle and then the pump shuts down and the dishwasher goes into the final silent mode as it approaches the DRY phase.

I am thinking there is a issue with the fronty float switch that determines water level
as it seems to be connected to the solenoid as well.

Any suggestions appreciated.
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denman  
#2 Posted : Friday, March 18, 2011 12:45:39 AM(UTC)
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denman

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Here are your parts
Replacement parts for General Electric GSD3400G00WW Dishwasher | AppliancePartsPros.com

[COLOR="DarkRed"]I am thinking there is a issue with the fronty float switch that determines water level as it seems to be connected to the solenoid as well.[/COLOR]
No.
This is only connected to the water inlet valve and just shuts the valve off if there is an overfill.

A very common problem is the piston and nut (Item 564 in Section 2). It is behind the screen filter at the back of the tub and unscrews. If it is not sealing correctly then some water goes back into the tub instead of it all going out the drain resulting in a partial drain.
I would check it.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
HoundDoggy  
#3 Posted : Friday, March 18, 2011 5:20:04 AM(UTC)
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HoundDoggy

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Originally Posted by: denman Go to Quoted Post
Here are your parts
Replacement parts for General Electric GSD3400G00WW Dishwasher | AppliancePartsPros.com

I am thinking there is a issue with the fronty float switch that determines water level as it seems to be connected to the solenoid as well.
No.
This is only connected to the water inlet valve and just shuts the valve off if there is an overfill.

A very common problem is the piston and nut (Item 564 in Section 2). It is behind the screen filter at the back of the tub and unscrews. If it is not sealing correctly then some water goes back into the tub instead of it all going out the drain resulting in a partial drain.
I would check it.



Okay , will do, Can I get to it from inside the tub by removing the screws that hold down that screen assembly or do I have to pull the dishwasher out from the cabinet and take the assembly off from underneath to access it?
denman  
#4 Posted : Friday, March 18, 2011 5:28:31 AM(UTC)
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denman

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[COLOR="DarkRed"]
Okay , will do, Can I get to it from inside the tub by removing the screws that hold down that screen assembly[/COLOR]
Yes that above is how you get to it.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
HoundDoggy  
#5 Posted : Friday, March 25, 2011 8:06:23 AM(UTC)
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HoundDoggy

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Originally Posted by: denman Go to Quoted Post

Okay , will do, Can I get to it from inside the tub by removing the screws that hold down that screen assembly
Yes that above is how you get to it.



sorry for the delay in getting back to this.

I pulled off the filter screen assembly and there was some 1.4 inch size debris around the piston. I removed it and ran the unit with nothing in it to try and purge stuff out. No change, still was leaving an full amount of ater in the bottom. The piston was at the top almost flush with the bottom edge of the washer. fiddling with it some more , gently pushed down on it and it receded about 1/4 inch into the hole. I reran the washer empty, but the piston remains in its pushed down state.

I am presuming the piston goes up and down in its slot as appropriate as the washer cycles... so I should have seen a change.


Funny thing , about 10 wash cycles later, the dishwasher is draining more than it used to, leaving only about 1/2 inch of eater in the bottom with no chage in the position of the piston.

did I break something pushing down on the piston?

Is the problem that whatever drives the piston is broken and intermitently works enough to drain the tub more.

I tried taking the two screws and the hoses off the assembly that the piston rides inside of (part 560) and then removing the assembly, but it didnt seem to want to budge. I didnt want to force it in case I am overlooking something.

I also trying unscrewing the collar that surrounds the piston on the inside of the dishwasher, that didt want to budge either.

whats the proper disassembly procedure to taking this apart and what should I look for?

I really need to get the repair manual that covers this dishwasher.
denman  
#6 Posted : Friday, March 25, 2011 9:23:11 AM(UTC)
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denman

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This is the closest I can get to a manual and it is not very good.
31-3280 Clean Design Electro-Mechanical GE Dishwasher Service Manual - ApplianceDigest.com

When you took the assembly out, the sloped flange at the top of the piston should seal to the top of the piston & nut assembly.

The way it works is that during wash, water can go down past the piston by compressing the spring and help feed water to the pump.

During drain the water flow is reversed, now the piston seals this port so that water does not flow back into the tub and it flows out the drain.

It is normal to have about a quarter inch of water sitting at the lowest point in the tub. These units do not totally drain. The pump does not like running totally dry and will burn up the seals if it is run dry so there is always water in the sump.
That is why when you install it you should always add a couple quarts of water before running it for the first time.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
HoundDoggy  
#7 Posted : Friday, March 25, 2011 10:22:14 AM(UTC)
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HoundDoggy

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Originally Posted by: denman Go to Quoted Post
This is the closest I can get to a manual and it is not very good.
31-3280 Clean Design Electro-Mechanical GE Dishwasher Service Manual - ApplianceDigest.com

When you took the assembly out, the sloped flange at the top of the piston should seal to the top of the piston & nut assembly.

The way it works is that during wash, water can go down past the piston by compressing the spring and help feed water to the pump.

During drain the water flow is reversed, now the piston seals this port so that water does not flow back into the tub and it flows out the drain.

It is normal to have about a quarter inch of water sitting at the lowest point in the tub. These units do not totally drain. The pump does not like running totally dry and will burn up the seals if it is run dry so there is always water in the sump.
That is why when you install it you should always add a couple quarts of water before running it for the first time.



Okay thanks again...

this does not make sense. I am missing something here or have things backwards

when I first pulled the cover off the inside of the tub to look at the piston/nut from above. The piston was in what I would assume is the "closed position" sealing the tub (flush with bottom of tub), it is now in a recessed open position with the hole opened.

So based on what you are saying, it seems that during the drain cycle the piston is sealing a port that is INSIDE the body valve and check assembly when it is closed and is therefore recessed in the tub and NOT sealing the hole in the bottom of the tub.

Otherwise I would have been draining fine and probably excessively
and not the opposite as experienced

so in the CLOSED DRAIN MODE, I would actually see the piston and nut recessed in the hole/shaft in the bottom of the tub.
In the OPEN wash mode, the piston would be flush with tub, closing up tub hole but opening up a port below?

I just ran up to check it when the washer had completed its cycles and shutoff normally and the piston was fully receased, hole was opened and the normal amount of water was now in the bottom of the tub.

It looks like the problem was either the piston was jammed by debris
at the top of the tub therefore sealing the hole in the bottom of the tub, but leaving the drain port closed.

OR the mechanism that allows the piston and nut assembly to rise and fall within the shaft is defective and causing issues.

I wil have to try and caught this during a drain cycle to see what the piston and nut is doing.

I have not yet removed the Body valve and check assembly from the bottom of the dishwasher. I got as far as removing the two screws and two hoses. I then tried to pull it off and meet alot of resistance.

I am assuming all I need to do is apply more force to pry it off the tub.

It looks like one can add photos of things in the quick reply if that would help.
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