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Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL KUDP01FLBT0 UNDERCOUNTER DISHWASHER | AppliancePartsPros.comSee the attachment for the tech sheet.
No heat can be a number of things.
You could try running the diagnostics.
If it passes the thermistor test and the heater does come on when it should then the board is shot.
The easiest to check is the high limit thermostat Item 30 in Section 7. It should be 30 ohms.
Next would be the heating element, it should be approximately 20 ohms.
If the unit uses two door switches it could be the switch is not closing or is shot. It should be 0 ohms when closed.
I would also check the thermistor resistance.
May even be a bad wire or connection.
If all the above are OK then the control board is probably shot.
If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
