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my dishwasher doesn't seem to dry. I changed the element and still nothing. what now
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Here are your parts Replacement parts for FRIGIDAIRE FDB2810LDC1 Frigidaire/dishwasher | AppliancePartsPros.comHere is the tech sheet http://manuals.frigidaire.com/prodinfo_pdf/Kinston/154495501ena.pdfI would check the hi-limit thermostat, should be 0 ohms. If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long. If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool. Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it. A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity 1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter. 2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path. 3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range. There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use. |
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Originally Posted by: denman  Here are your parts Replacement parts for FRIGIDAIRE FDB2810LDC1 Frigidaire/dishwasher | AppliancePartsPros.comHere is the tech sheet http://manuals.frigidaire.com/p...Kinston/154495501ena.pdfI would check the hi-limit thermostat, should be 0 ohms. If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long. If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool. Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it. A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity 1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter. 2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path. 3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range. There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use. Sparky, With your multi meter, check the hi limit thermostat for a closed circuit(below 200 dgrs.) like the previous post. You can program the test mode and the last 90 seconds of the test will send power to the thermostat and element, the element should be warm if you open th door at the end of the test mode(if the control board is operating properly). Were it me I would perform a "live" voltage test, You may or may not want to ? (be extremely careful if you do) You'd attach one meter lead to a chassis ground. and the meter set to read AC voltage, check each wire/terminal for 120 VAC from the terminal to chassis ground, starting at the red wire on the hi limit thermostat, the other red wire at the thermostat, then the red wire on the element, then the white wire on the element, With the information from the previous post, and this additional information, you should be able to determine the fault in the heater circuit. (if there's no voltage on the red wires at the thermostat, you'd have a broken red wire back to the control board, or a bad control board). Good Luck, :) :) :)
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