[Lululu]

Just found this site. Looks pretty good. Been a licensed union plumber for 12 years. would also like to contribute here. Thanks

[DRA]

Hi!

My Bosch Dishwasher, Model # SHU9955US/14 (Purchased from Sears) recently started running excessively long during the wash cycle. This machine is about 10+ years old and has run perfectly until now!

When I start the machine on regular wash, the time displays many more minutes than the normal 100 minutes used for the normal wash cycle and take even longer to complete the cycle.

I have taken the door assembly apart to inspect the electrical components and have initially concluded the control module to be the most likely problem.

I really appreciated reading the numerous postings on this forum, that also conclude with changing the control module. This is too costly a part to just purchase a replacement to see what happens.

Upon further searching the internet, I found a proceedure to put the dishwasher in a "Test Mode" by pressing 2 contol buttons: Wash & Power Scrub Plus, simutaenously. Fault code are supossed to illuminate on the digital display to indicate if there is a problem with a sensor, etc. The code/faults chart is as follows:

0 = no errors
1 = a water sensor/ filling fault
2 = a heating fault
4 = a water filling fault
8 = a temperature sensor fault

My intent is to reassemble the dishwasher door enough to run the machine through this test cycle to determine if a fault is diagnoses. My electrical & electronic background still leads me to suspect the control module, but I will approach this repair with an open mind.

Additionally, I was advised by Bosch to run a wash cycle with only a bowl of vinegar set in the bottom rack, face up. They stated that this cleans any film on the various sensors to assure their proper function.

I will post my troubleshhooting finding and repairs needed conclusion after I have completed the above procedures.

DRA (Doug)

[kerrylogston27]

Appliancepartspros Part #266746

[BrianK]

I resoldered the trace about 8 years ago and no problems with the 2H/run continuously since and didn't replace the relay (yet). Other problems with this DW are:
1) faulty pushbutton plastic tabs which break off due to heat. I bought a plastic soldering kit and gooped lots of extra plastic on these tabs;
2) a leaky inlet solenoid which eventually caused an overflow;
3) noisy squealing pumps - which the local Bosch repair guy said was due to us precleaning our dishes and not having enough 'lube' in the water to keep the pump quiet. We don't preclean. What a load of crap.
I won't buy any more European stuff. They design to mininum spec.That is if it takes 10 amps, they design for 10 amps with no safety factor built in which causes the problems we see here.

[djmiller5]

So, we've been having the same type of problems with our Bosch and we are running it through a vinegar bath. It smells like we are getting ready to color Easter eggs, but I'm sure that's temporary. :-)

[jenniferatkins]

To repair any appliance is not very hard job. But some time we get problem like any appliances like, washer, dishwasher or dryer get older 20 years or 30 years then find their part is create problem otherwise it's okay. 6 month before I was getting problem with my 10 years old bosch dishwasher pump, belt and timer goes bad. The water was not draining. I have checked and replace those parts and now it's running fine. I done repair job with the help of user manual.

[StratLou]

Well, I'm on my 4th replacement (I think, I lost count) of the control module due to the 2H code appearing. All is well now. My question is that when I removed and looked at the board, there was no burnt solder joint like on the original board. Does anyone have any idea what went bad then? I would like to repair it and save it for the next time the module needs replacement.
Also, I still have the original board. Should I try the Tyco replacement heater relay for that board or is that relay only recommended (by Mr Mark, for ex.) for the more recent boards (my original has the led red lights vs the newer board without).
Thanks for any thoughts on preparing for the inevitable "next time".

Lou

[InSearchOfAnswers]

Originally Posted by StratLou

Well, I'm on my 4th replacement (I think, I lost count) of the control module due to the 2H code appearing. All is well now. My question is that when I removed and looked at the board, there was no burnt solder joint like on the original board. Does anyone have any idea what went bad then? I would like to repair it and save it for the next time the module needs replacement.
Also, I still have the original board. Should I try the Tyco replacement heater relay for that board or is that relay only recommended (by Mr Mark, for ex.) for the more recent boards (my original has the led red lights vs the newer board without).
Thanks for any thoughts on preparing for the inevitable "next time".

Lou

If you would like to fix your old board for the "next time", use the R46-5D12-6 relay. Search Youtube with that number.