Customer Support 7 days a week

Welcome Guest! To enable all features please Login or Register.

Notification

Icon
Error

New Topic Post Reply
Options
Go to last post Go to first unread
givemeabreak  
#1 Posted : Monday, December 27, 2010 7:08:34 PM(UTC)
Quote
givemeabreak

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/27/2010(UTC)
Posts: 2

Had this DW but about 1.5 years (out of warranty) and the tub does not fill. No water coming into the machine. I know there's a water valve, float and obviously a timer, but don't know the systematic way to troubleshoot the machine to ascertain why the tub isn't filling. Did check the air gap and it's clear, at least at the counter level. Disconnected the water line at the supply inlet valve and there's water flowing there. Any help would be sincerely appreciated as I know these type forums have a wealth of knowledge helping "shade tree mechanics" such as myself. Thanks to all in advance.
Sponsor
See inside of your appliance - diagrams and part photos for virtually every model.

powered by AppliancePartsPros.com
 
denman  
#2 Posted : Friday, December 31, 2010 3:11:18 AM(UTC)
Quote
denman

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
Posts: 19,638

Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 11 time(s) in 11 post(s)
Here are your parts
Replacement parts for PDW9280N20SS models | AppliancePartsPros.com

Check for 120 volts across the water valve when it should be filling.

If there is 120 there and the valve does not open the valve is probably toast.

Note: These valves do have a screen filter on the input side so check that before ordering a valve. Check that the filter is not clogged solid. If it is clean the screen. Do not permanently remove the screen from the valve as it is there to keep crud out of the valve which could hold it open and cause a flood.

If there is no voltage check the flood switch (Item 308 in Section 2)
It should be activated. Sometimes the float can get stuck in the up position and the unit thinks it is already overfilled so will not add water. This switch is wired in series with the valve.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
givemeabreak  
#3 Posted : Friday, December 31, 2010 2:59:49 PM(UTC)
Quote
givemeabreak

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/27/2010(UTC)
Posts: 2

Originally Posted by: denman Go to Quoted Post
Here are your parts
Replacement parts for PDW9280N20SS models | AppliancePartsPros.com

Check for 120 volts across the water valve when it should be filling.

If there is 120 there and the valve does not open the valve is probably toast.

Note: These valves do have a screen filter on the input side so check that before ordering a valve. Check that the filter is not clogged solid. If it is clean the screen. Do not permanently remove the screen from the valve as it is there to keep crud out of the valve which could hold it open and cause a flood.

If there is no voltage check the flood switch (Item 308 in Section 2)
It should be activated. Sometimes the float can get stuck in the up position and the unit thinks it is already overfilled so will not add water. This switch is wired in series with the valve.

denman: Thanks for your response. I checked voltage at "fill cycle" and had 123V. Tripped the breaker, took valve off, cleaned and flushed and put it back on. Loaded washer with "clean" dishes, selected "Normal" cycle, "Heated Dry" and turned on. Tub filled fine, so closed door and let it run remainder of cycle. Soap dispensed and 3 hours later I could still hear a Hum coming from the machine - "Normal" and "Heated Dry" lights were still on as was the machine "On" light. Thinking this not to be normal (time wise), I opened the door and noticed the machine had drained, and hot air/water was felt coming from the machine. I touched the HEATED DRY keypad, the light went out, touched the ON/RESET keypad, light went out and the NORMAL light remained lit. I closed the door, looked at it about an hour later and the NORMAL light too was out. I'm not sure whether the darn thing is working correctly or not. Do you have a feel for how much time should elapse between START OF FILL through complete DRY and machine shutdown? I suspect that something is still amiss with this machine, but just can't put my finger on what it is. Could the Control Keypad, which, I assume, controls Cycle sequencing be bad? I'm really interested to know how long the machine should run - Start to Finish - "NORMAL" Cycle?? Thanks for your response and thoughts. This is the quietest Dishwasher I've ever heard and I have to work at hearing it run, but 3 hours plus seems like an exorbitant run cycle to me. Thanks again
denman  
#4 Posted : Saturday, January 1, 2011 1:55:50 AM(UTC)
Quote
denman

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
Posts: 19,638

Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 11 time(s) in 11 post(s)
Here is the operators manual. It gives approximate cycle times.
http://products.geappliances.com/MarketingObjectRetrieval/Dispatcher?RequestType=PDF&Name=49-55042-1.pdf

A common cause of long cycle times is low water temperature entering the unit.
It will then wait while it heats up the water.
The normal is that the water entering the unit should be 120 degrees F minimum.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
Quick Reply Show Quick Reply
Users browsing this topic
New Topic Post Reply
Forum Jump  
You can post new topics in this forum.
You can reply to topics in this forum.
You can delete your posts in this forum.
You can edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You can vote in polls in this forum.