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I have Kitchen Aid Dishwasher KUDI230B0 where the soap dispenser "fan" on the door stays shut and does not open

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Old 11-26-2010, 09:30 AM
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Default Detergent Dispenser
Brand: Kitchen Aid   Age: More than 10 years   

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I have Kitchen Aid Dishwasher KUDI230B0 where the soap dispenser "fan" on the door stays shut and does not open to dispense soap during wash cycle.
Don't know if the dispenser is the problem or a screw or another part is the problem.

Dispenser is discontinued, so I can't order it. Help!

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Old 11-26-2010, 01:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrightc View Post
I have Kitchen Aid Dishwasher KUDI230B0 where the soap dispenser "fan" on the door stays shut and does not open to dispense soap during wash cycle.
Don't know if the dispenser is the problem or a screw or another part is the problem.

Dispenser is discontinued, so I can't order it. Help!

The bi metal switch assembly for the cup is,

Part number: AP3041715

Part number: AP3041715


You could remove the dispenser from the door assembly,
Clean and lube the moving parts,
Install the new part.

Good Luck,
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Old 11-26-2010, 05:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe / APP Team View Post
The bi metal switch assembly for the cup is,

Part number: AP3041715

Part number: AP3041715


You could remove the dispenser from the door assembly,
Clean and lube the moving parts,
Install the new part.

Good Luck,
THANKS!!
Is this something that a Happy Homeowner could do or do I need to call a local company that services Kitchen Aid Dishwashers???
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Old 11-29-2010, 07:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wrightc View Post
THANKS!!
Is this something that a Happy Homeowner could do or do I need to call a local company that services Kitchen Aid Dishwashers???

If you've got basic skills and basic hand tools,

You'll be fine.

Just remember, *** turn the POWER OFF*** to the dishwasher before you start.

Remove the inner door liner from the door asembly, carefully.

Disconnect the wires to the detergent cup, label the wires, so you can reattach them to the new switch.

Remove the bi metal switch assembly.

Soak the complete assembly in hot water and dry thoroughly.

You may want to test the door operation,before you install the new switch.

You may also want to put a couple of drops of oil (3in1,is decent)on the shaft and let it migrate down, into the housing.

Install the switch.

Reverse the procedure and test the unit for operation.

Good Luck,
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Old 02-20-2011, 02:38 PM
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Default Bimatal Electrical Issue?

I opened up my door and checked out the electrical circuit -- the blue wire was running power (test lite lit up when grounded), but the yellow/black wire connected to the other side never completed a circuit when I ran thru complete cycle with circuit tester connected. Wires all appear intact and properly connected. Could it still be a problem with the bimetal assmpbly, or is the switch/wiring harness?
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Old 02-21-2011, 09:58 AM
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I opened up my door and checked out the electrical circuit -- the blue wire was running power (test lite lit up when grounded), but the yellow/black wire connected to the other side never completed a circuit when I ran thru complete cycle with circuit tester connected. Wires all appear intact and properly connected. Could it still be a problem with the bimetal assmpbly, or is the switch/wiring harness?
Jeff,

The Blue wire, is the neutral leg of the motor and detergent cup of the bi metal, you were probably reading the voltage from the motor winding.

The Yellow/Black wire is the power to the bi metal from the timer.

Try this,

With a multi meter, check for a resistance reading across the two terminals, with the wires off, on the bi metal switch, on RK1 scale on your meter. You should have a reading, if the switch is good.

Check the yellow / black wire from the detergent cup bi metal to the timer connection, for broken, loose, etc.

Leave the yellow/black wire off the bi metal switch, start the dishwasher at the main wash cycle, approximately 4or5 minutes into the wash cycle there should be 120 VAC on the yellow/black wire, If no voltage you'd have a bad timer or wire.

I'm sure you'll know what to do, and the part needed from there.
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Old 04-20-2011, 12:31 PM
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So, I ordered the new bimetal switch and installed it -- the cup does not open, no voltage to the switch. Should I just replace the timer? The yellow/black and blue wires both look to be in perfect condition. Is it possible the timer works for all the other cycles, but does not send current to bimetal switch? Thanks
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Old 04-20-2011, 02:57 PM
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Originally Posted by jeffepops View Post
So, I ordered the new bimetal switch and installed it -- the cup does not open, no voltage to the switch. Should I just replace the timer? The yellow/black and blue wires both look to be in perfect condition. Is it possible the timer works for all the other cycles, but does not send current to bimetal switch? Thanks

Jeff,

Yes, it's possible the timer increment could be bad, but that's not a common occurence.

You should have the voltage at the switch for 60 to 90 seconds, and a couple of minutes into the main wash cycle, is that how you tested the circuit and voltage ?

If you're sure the wires are OK, and with the new switch( I wouldn't expect that to be bad) then go with a new timer.


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Old 04-20-2011, 04:13 PM
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Yes, I ran the normal wash cycle. I don't have a multimeter, but I did clip a simple 120/240v circuit tester to the yellow/black and blue leads. It did not light up at all over the first 5 minutes of the normal cycle, and when plugged into the switch, the switch did not open. I had the panel off of the door, so was able to observe that nothing moved anywhere. I ran it several times to be certain. Can't think of what else I should have done. Thanks!
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Old 04-21-2011, 07:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeffepops View Post
Yes, I ran the normal wash cycle. I don't have a multimeter, but I did clip a simple 120/240v circuit tester to the yellow/black and blue leads. It did not light up at all over the first 5 minutes of the normal cycle, and when plugged into the switch, the switch did not open. I had the panel off of the door, so was able to observe that nothing moved anywhere. I ran it several times to be certain. Can't think of what else I should have done. Thanks!
Jeff, based on that, I would have to think you do have a bad timer,

Part number: AP2920568

Part number: AP2920568


Were it me, I would attach a 120 VAC test cord to the terminals of the bimetal switch, plug it into an outlet and make sure the bi metal switch worps and releases the dispenser door, first.

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