Please disregard this posting, it's in the incorrect forum.
Thomas Jefferson once said "When you reach the end of your rope, tie a knot in it and hang on." Well, right now, I'm hanging onto that knot with my teeth. Here's my pathetic:( story...
About 10 days ago the Whirlpool top loading, direct drive washer starting acting up. It fills, agitates and drains with no problem but as it's draining and the spin cycle starts it makes a loud intermittent noise and the spin basket has a slow jerking motion. The spin speed never gets any faster. The noise is as if something is "trying" to prevent the spin basket from spinning but can't stop the spin completely.
So far I've inspected the coupler, all components are fine. They were replaced a year ago. Additional research pointed to the clutch so I replaced it. I'm sure the machine appreciates the new part but the problem persists. More research led me to richappy's sticky Replacing direct drive washer brake shoes, a fine piece of useful literature. I purchased the spanner wrench and successfully removed the drive block nut, spin basket and drive block. All three components have been thoroughly cleaned and inspected. They're beautiful. Also, there's nothing obstructing the spin basket.
I moved on to the brake assembly. I disassembled and inspected all of the components but, be warned, this is where my questions:confused: begin.
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The sticky says: "To repair the old shoes, I routinely grind down the shoe pads by 1/8 inch or less..." The shoes I removed have worn evenly and are about 1/8" thick, how much have they worn if they are currently an 1/8" thick? Should I grind the shoes at all? It sounds like my brake shoes are too thin if I should be able to grind off an 1/8". The brake housing has no rust and is not pitted at all.
Assuming I can re-use the old shoes, the sticky says: "...I put oil on the brake shoe pads..." What kind of oil do I put on the shoes?
The rollers look good and they roll freely. Can I use silicone spray or is silicone grease recommended?
While doing all the above, and more, I gave the spin tube a spin just for the heck of it and to my surprise:eek: , I was able to replicate the same sound the machine was making without my assistance. Keep in mind that I've followed the sticky to the letter and didn't tighten the drive block nut which means that when I gave the spin tube a little ride, it was spinning against the drive block. Is it possible that my spin cycle problem, and noise, are due to a bad drive block?
So, if it's not the coupling, and it's not the clutch, and it's not the brakes, and it's not the drive block, is it the tranny?:( The guy who sold me the spanner wrench voted for the tranny but I don't have a lot of faith in him because he didn't know that the machine had brakes and considered the clutch and brakes to be one in the same.[/LIST]A few more things:
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I appreciate you taking the time to read my posting, thank you.
I'll appreciate it even more if you reply with some good advice...related to my posting.
Remember, I'm still hanging onto that rope with my teeth and I can smell the delicious pie my wife is baking. Hint, hint: I love pie.;)[/LIST]Seriously, thank you for your time.
Ken
:D
