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gentry74  
#1 Posted : Saturday, September 4, 2010 3:03:53 PM(UTC)
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gentry74

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Hi all, I have a maytag 2400awe that appears to be leaking from around the pump shaft? It is a slow drip that occurs only when the pump is spinning. I saw another post of someone asking about how to remove the impeller. My question: is that what I need to replace? the impeller? Are there other parts I should order as well? I just want to make sure I purchase everything I need to complete the job. Differing opinions on what needs to be replaced are welcome too! Thanks in advance.
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gentry74  
#2 Posted : Sunday, September 5, 2010 7:49:32 AM(UTC)
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gentry74

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I figured out how to slide the impeller off the shaft. The shaft is fluted. I was able to pull it straight off (though it was very tough). Rather than buying the 30.00 part, I carefully filled the area inside the gasket and around the shaft with liquid gasket (auto part). There was some hair and maybe a piece of dental floss (? just bought this house...:)) around the impeller shaft too. Cleaned everything up and tightened everything and the leak is gone. Anyone else who needs to do this--- you have to remove the housing from the washer and the motor from the housing (which requires removal of the impeller). Good luck!
LoveLearn  
#3 Posted : Thursday, September 9, 2010 7:52:19 AM(UTC)
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LoveLearn

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You are to be commended for your clear thinking and directly effective repair approach. If I'd read this before you'd reassembled that pump motor-pump assembly, I would have suggested that you replace the original rust-prone motor wet-end armature-support bearing with a stainless steel bearing. Not free but available for about $8. Size is identical to that commonly found supporting rollerblade wheels. These pump seal leaks are sadly common. The usual result is wetting that single wet-side motor shaft support bearing, starting a continually degrading process which first makes the circulation pump motor increasingly noisy and eventually locks up that bearing. Then people hear the motor "hum" loudly, trying to start but not being able to spin which spinning also drives that motor's air-flow impeller needed to dump heat from the motor windings. Then the windings heat up enough for the motor's thermal-overload sensor to trigger shut-down until it cools enough for that sensor to automatically reset, starting the same "hum" noise and burn-prevention shut-down cycle again.

You did 95% of the work needed to replace that rust-prone wet-end motor armature support bearing with a rust-immune bearing. If you ever have occasion to get into it again, I suggest that you swap in a stainless steel bearing before reassembing that pump motor/pump assembly.
John
gentry74  
#4 Posted : Thursday, September 16, 2010 8:09:38 AM(UTC)
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gentry74

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If my memory is accurate, I cannot recall seeing a bearing anywhere during my disassembly/assembly. The plastic impeller (which was all one part) and the main housing/basin only had rubber washers permanently attached for the drive shaft. Can you elaborate on where the bearing is? Thanks very much for taking the time to respond. Much appreciated.
LoveLearn  
#5 Posted : Thursday, September 16, 2010 9:40:10 AM(UTC)
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LoveLearn

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Sorry, I've been pretty swamped with a prototype design project. I just got an email notice that you posted a question.

The pump's impeller is supported by the motor's exterior extended shaft. The motor shaft, on which the spinning armature is mounted, is supported on each end of the motor by a roller bearing set. The end of that motor which is closest to the pump is what I described as the motor's "wet end." While the extended shaft spins the pump impeller, that part of the shaft gets wet. But the pump seals are intended to prevent any of that water from seeping though to what is intended to remain a dry region, where the wet-end motor bearing spins. Unfortunately, pump seals eventually develop weeping seepage. When that happens, water can migrate over to the motor shaft support bearing. I know that it doesn't appear that it would get over that far. But after field experience has shown untold thousands of rust-failed motor support bearings, it seems pretty obvious that water can and does eventually wet that bearing. If that bearing is replaced with one which can't rust, the shaft can still rust, but that would take a long time to fail from rusting. The first part to fail is the seal, then the rustable bearing. They are already using good seals. Improving the seals may be tough. But using a bearing on that end of the motor which can't rust would be extremely easy during manufacture.

I'm suggesting that field replacement of those bearings is justified when the original rustable bearings fail due to water-contact-induced rusting.

I hope that clarifies my comments. Sorry that I failed to make that more clear in my earlier statement.
John
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