Originally Posted by Danbury Appliance Pro
You sure sound like you know what you're doing, great work! Did you buy the thermal fuses new or used?
Let's just call me a work in progress. But add moisture sensor to the replaced parts because I accidentally ordered it. Not sure how.
I've had more practice than I would have liked lol I work on my older cars, like my 2000 Landcruiser. Program PLC's for a living. And besides that, you can learn to operate the Large Hadron Collider if you just watch YouTube
I've got a Yaesu FTDX-560 (Ham radio) on my bench right now. Someone really made a mess of the power supply section. So electronics don't bother me much, even if it has tubes in it.
I bought new fuses every time. Ohm'd them out prior to replacing them. I checked the other components too, and they checked good. I replaced them and the element out of desperation last week. Went on a road trip for work, washed a load, stuck them in the dryer, and checked the temp when it stopped. I knew it was broken when I saw 200°F. The dryer wouldn't start after that. So I ordered another fuse and read the tech sheet.
So, I finally read the tech sheet. After all this time... I finally read thru it and entered diagnostic mode on the dryer about 20m ago. Code 70, 30, and 1 (I think it was 1)
Checked the control box and
at some time I managed to unplug P8. I think it was unplugged from the very first time I tried to repair the dryer.
I'm hopeful that plugging it in and replacing the thermal fuse will finally fix the dryer. But I'm skeptical.
Based on what I see on the schematic P8 connects:
- Drum Lamp
- Door Switch
- Motor CS (whatever that is)
Surely none of that would have caused a Code 70, which, by the way, is No communication between electronic assemblies?
30 is low dryer air flow, but that could've happened when the fuse blew
1 is Primary control failure but that's probably been the case for a while if P8 could cause it.