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Parts for Maytag MSD2722GRW Refrigerator - AppliancePartsPros.com
If you click on a part's picture, then anew page will open often with a Q&A section which should be helpful to you.
My fridge is running warm,
I am assuming that you mean the freezer and fresh food sections are warm.
the coils in the freezer are all frosted.
In order for it to be a defrost problem the coils have to be frosted/iced over to the point where the evaporator/freezer fan cannot pull air through them.
I'm told it's the defrost timer most likely since fans are running.
The compressor also has to be running. You can usually hear it but it should also be warm and you should be able to feel it vibrating.
If it is a defrost problem you may not have to get to the timer itself, see below.
First remove the evaporator cover in the freezer so you can see the coils.
Do not let them de-ice.
Manually force a defrost cycle by turning the defrost timer cam (Item 13 in Section 02 ) till the fans and compressor turn off.
There is usually a hole in the cover to let you do this without taking anything apart.
Now check the defrost heater to see if it is on.
Be careful you do not want to burn your fingers.
If the heater is on then the timer needs replacing, re: it is probably stalling during it's rotation so is never getting into a defrost cycle.
If not on.
Unplug the unit.
Remove the wire for one side of the heating element/thermostat assembly (Item in Section ) from the wiring and measure it for continuity, usually around 20 ohms or so.
Note that the thermostat opens just above freezing so must be frozen to check it. Also inspect it, if it is bulged at all replace it even if it measures OK.
When it is above freezing it should measure around 240,000 ohms.
If the heater/thermostat are OK then odds are the defrost timer contacts are toast.
If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.
There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.