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Old 10-06-2011, 07:17 PM
notknowitall notknowitall is offline
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Exclamation cheers to that

Hey guys / gals,

Same issue here, cycle runs in every way correct but always seems to skip the draining step.

SO, I pulled out the whole washer, grabbed my tools and my voltmeter, and followed my nose. BTW, I am in no way saying this is something you should do, and it is very easy to zap yourself when you try to get into the guts of something plugged into your wall...

Anyhoo, the drain pump (no solenoid, and the flow-back check valve was clean) was getting very hot during the part of the cycle that should actually drain the filthy wash water.

I turned the washer's house circuit breaker off. Limits my chance of getting zapped...

I pulled the drain pump.

I disassembled it carefully. NO debris, actually was very clean. NO obstructions to turning the impeller inside.

SO looking at the pump's printed spec's I gave it what it likes: 115-120V AC (common US household power). It worked. Perfectly. In fact, it did not even heat up even after running continuously for an hour.

Re-assembled, plugged back in just as I found it. Ran a cycle.

This time I had my voltmeter clamped to the motor's terminals.

Sure enough, when the drain cycle hits the motor sits there and hummmms...only getting warmer.

I'm no wizard, but when I measure a voltage of 12-36ish volts when this happens (instead of closer to 115V), something tells me the motor controller is WAY OFF!!!

BTW - if you gently 'tap' the side of the motor when it is in this weird hung-up voltage it will run perfectly. I still don't blame the motor.

So, to you that know a lot more than me, would this be the board to replace?: Kit - Main & Tactile Bd ?

Or am I more crazy than normal?

Any input is appreciated.
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