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Old 09-02-2011, 02:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by homerepairbyneed View Post
That is one of the two parts that arrived today and was replaced. I get around 120v through the fuse, so I don't know what else to try. Could the replacemnt interface I got be bad? The door switch seems to work and there is power to and through the fuse. I can't figure it out. Is there a way to test the interface?
Homerepair,

A couple of things you'll need to check :
This is a "live voltage test, so be careful.

At the main control board, with the door switch bypassed or closed,
Terminal P8( tan wire) to chassis ground should read 120 VAC. No voltage would indicate bad door switch or wire.
Connector P2 pin 6(black / white wire) to chassis ground should read 120 VAC. No voltage would indicate a bad thermal fuse or damaged wire.
At the thermal fuse the black wire to chassis ground should read 120 VAC to chassis ground.

If that all checks OK, you'll need to run the diagnostic test mode :

HIGH Temp(Power Scour)-Air Dry(No Heat Dry)(Energy Saver Dry)-High Temp(Power Scour)- Air Dry(No Heat Dry)(Energy Saver Dry)

DIAGNOSTICS CYCLE SERVICE FEATURE
Press the above option keys
in the sequence shown, while the dishwasher is inactive, to run the Diagnostics Cycle. This cycle may be rapid advanced, interval by interval, by pressing the
Pots&Pans/Heavy key, Antibacteria/Cookware key, or Start key.

And observe the "LED" and operation of the dishwasher.
The Technical Data Sheet for your dishwasher should be attached to the backside on the lower kit plate area, If it's there you'll have a lot more information.

Good Luck,

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