My icemaker has been out for some time, so I ran the tests you recommended below. There is no voltage across the N&L terminals. However, when I unplugged the icemaker and measured the voltage across incoming leads, it was only about 92-93 volts and the voltage going to the water valve is only about 89-90 volts. Is this normal for a Whirlpool? Model No. GD5RHAXNQ00.
Before I buy a new icemaker, however, the compressor has been making a knocking noise about every hour or so. This has been going on for the better part of a year. The compressor appears to be well anchored to the bracket but is hot to the touch (if that means anything bad). Otherwise, both refrigerator and freezer (side by side) appear to be cooling adequately. Just measured the freezer at between 10 and 0 degrees F. Is this knocking noise a problem a pro can easily fix or is it an indication that my refrigerator is on its way out.
Originally Posted by Gene
The first thing I would check is the temperature in the freezer (it suppose to be bellow 12°F) and the water feeding tube into the ice maker for any blockage.
If there is a water filter - how old is it?
Remove the ice maker head cover and check for 120VAC between "N" & "L" test points. Make sure the test probes are 1/2" in.
If there is 120VAC then using an insulated piece of wire (14 GA), short points "T" & "H" to run the motor. Leave the jumper in for a half of a revolution and remove it. The water valve should be energized in the last half of the revolution.
Post the results.
Here are the break down diagrams for the Roper refrigerator Model RS22AQXKQ00