Gene; I read the thread you sent me (No Heat on Gas Dryer) and checked out all the parts (including the thermal fuse and the cycling thermostat). They all have continuity but inconsistencies I ran into are as follows:
1. The thermostat heater had a resistance of 3,670 ohms versus the minimum of 5,000, so I will replace that
2. The secondary coil had a resistance between the 1 & 2 terminals of 1398 ohms, slightly higher than the spec of 1365 +/- 25 ohms, so I will probably replace both coils considering the price. Not mentioned in the thread was continuity between the 2 & 3 terminals. I got a resistance of 1975 ohms. Is that significant or even relevant?
3. The Ignitor has continuity but it has a resistance of 94.4 ohms. Is that normal? When I cut on the dryer, it glows and the burner lights so it appears to be functional.
Originally Posted by Gene
Your mistake is that you tried to use instructions for the electric dryer while having problems with the gas dryer. The troubleshooting is different for those dryers.
The fist thing you may want to check for continuity is the thermal fuse (#6 on the diagram
). If this fuse is open, replace the cycling thermostat as well and clean the dryer vent line.
This part is actually a heater. The normal resistance reading should be between 5000 Ohms and 9000 Ohms. If the reading is incorrect, replace it too.
There are two different thermal fuses listed for this dryer by Whirlpool (weird), so you have to determine which one is used in your dryer before order any.
- The thermal fuse Part number: AP3132867
- The thermal fuse Part number: AP3133489
- The cycling thermostat Part number: AP3115922
- The thermostat heater Part number: AP3134945
Here are the breakdown diagrams and Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL LG5796XPW0 Residential Dryer | AppliancePartsPros.com
P.S. You can find some useful information in one of our previous threads: No Heat on Gas Dryer