Originally Posted by debryan
OK So I found the light on the infrared light very inconsistant.
Mostly flashing twice, pauseing between. No change after closing flapper on the left.
Found the black filler hose and it did feel frozen.
Took my hair dryer to it for 5 minutes.
Not a drip, but infrared started 2 short 1 long and steady on when flapper closed.
Now back to 2 flashes.
Maybe the line is frozen up in the ceiling?
What do you think?
Just finished talking to Carl, He's a busy man.
I told him I would use this response to make explanations and checks we need him to make.
Make sure you save this post for him, so we can get you up and running.
At the new fill valve,
There are 5 connectors, there should be 5 water tubes,
1) the single valve solenoid, with the brass threaded fitting and the white
outlet with the blue john guess (compression) fitting,this is the water
supply to the valve assembly(the brass fitting) and the water tube going to
the filter should be inserted into the outlet(blue ring)on the single valve.
2) the return tube from the water tank needs to be inserted into the
single white,connector with the yellow ringed fitting, at the end of the dual
3) the green solenoid fitting with the blue ring fitting, is the ice maker
supply, and the tube for the icemaker should be inserted into it.
4) the orange solenoid with the yellow ringed fitting is the water
dispenser,and the remianing tube should be inserted into it.
I don't think you have a problem there.
Now for the I/R dispenser control system.
(you'll need a paper clip and an insulated wire with both ends stripped 1/2 inch).
1) remove the reciever board( on the right side wall, with the on / off switch).
2) remove the 8 pin 5 wire connector from the board.
*** of course you have the power off to the unit ***
3) straighten and insert the paper clip into the harness connector on pin
number 3(usually a solid black wire) the other end of the clip insert it into
the number 4 pin(usually black with a white stripe).
*** you can now reset power to the refrigerator ***
4) remove the white plastic cover on the mechanism head,find the opening
(holes) labelled T and the one labelled H, insert the ends of the insulated
jumper wires, deep enough to contact the internal points in the mechanism
and hold there, until the arm on the rake assembly start to rotate ( should
only take a couple of seconds), and remove the jumper wire, the ice maker
would be in
proper operating condition, and you'll need the I/R control board kit.
*** if the icemaker does not advance, you'll need to remove the ice maker
assembly and check the pins in the wall connector for 120 VAC, using the
the ice maker harness as a refference for L1(black) and white wire(n)
and check for 120 VAC at the wall connector, no voltage would indicate a
bad wire in the wall, not a repairable situation.***
When done testing, remove the jumper wires and repair as necessary.
Based on the last response, I'm pretty sure you'll find you have a bad I/R control board problem, and you'll be fine after you replace the board kit.