Good news and bad...Element was part of issue...but
Abbie,
I know it’s been awhile since the last post, but I’ve been traveling a lot for work. I thought about what you said in your last post and took out the element again to re-inspect it. The first time I was an idiot and was just looking to see if it was literally touching the “metal can” like you suggested…but this time I noticed what obviously should have been just that…obvious. The coil was sagging and touching the crossbar…which OBVIOUSLY is attached to the metal can…dah! One twist of the coil off the crossbar and bingo, the problem of the heat automatically coming on when the timer is moved to an active position (even if wiring isn’t plugged into the motor switch) was fixed.
However, while one problem is fixed (well at least temporarily until I order a new element)…the motor will still not turn on. I do have the 110 coming to the plug and I’d assume can substantiate that since the dryer light comes on and the timer runs. So I guess my question now is if you think the “terminal fuse” or the “hi-limit” fuse would prevent the motor from turning on? I know the original diagnosis of what probably was wrong indicated the motor switch itself. However, once I fixed the issue with the element and the motor still wouldn’t turn on…I laid the new motor that I ordered next to the current one and attached the wiring harness…and that motor didn’t turn on either.
I’m guessing it’s not the push to start button…since I can actually feel it reset itself when I turn the timer.
Thanks!
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