View Single Post
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 01-04-2008, 04:13 PM
Merlis Merlis is offline
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 4
Merlis is on a distinguished road

I don't think I have the information on my spec sheet that you mentioned. The new control board I installed came with a note saying "Testing has shown the reed switch is not needed on front load washers. If the washer has a reed switch, disconnect it from the old board and discard." The new control board doesn't even have the terminals to connect the reed switch. I don't think that's the problem.

I can't find any sort of test connector behind the front panel, so I removed the switch. I showed an electrician the schematic for the washer, and he told me to test the gray and red wire terminals of the door switch for 1325 ohms of resistance. I think I found the one he meant, it was a red with black stripe wire. It tested at 1389 (okay I think?). I also tested the gray and black wires for voltage and found 120 volts with the machine in standby, and 0 volts during spin cycle. Is this right? I'm not sure if I'm testing the right terminals or not. Any help with exactly which wires to test would be very appreciated.

The door switch has three different connectors going to it. One has two wires, pink and red with black stripe. I believe this connects to the wax something. The next connector has four, an orange wire and three red with black stripe wires. The last connector has two, a black and a gray wire. Too many red with black, I am very confused.

I can hear the door lock when I go through the diagnostic tests and make the washer spin that way, but I don't know if that means anything or not. Any help with which wires/terminals to test would be great.
Reply With Quote

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17